Day 1 of this Costa Brava itinerary: How to get there
Our trip starts in Madrid, fully equipping our motorhome. To get to the Costa Brava, there are several options and roads depending on the point of origin.
From Madrid, it is quite simple. Just take the A2 highway towards Zaragoza-Barcelona and straight ahead.
Depending on where you start your route already inside the Costa Brava, the exit will be one or another (you can start at the bottom or go all the way to the top, Cadaqués, and start going down). We made a stop in Sitges that, although it does not belong to the Costa Brava, I highly recommend it as it is very nice and pleasant. And also other nearby villages of the Alt Empordà, such as Castelló d’Ampuries and Empuriabrava (the Spanish Venice).
After visiting these villages and towns quietly, we headed to the first villages of the Costa Brava. We started to climb quietly, and our first stop on the route was Roses.
💡 If you still haven’t booked hotels for your trip, we recommend you check these posts:: best towns to stay in the Costa Brava and the best charming hotels in the Costa Brava.
Day 2 of the road trip along Costa Brava: Roses
Spending a day in Roses is a great option because, in addition to getting to know it in detail, you can focus on enjoying a good meal in a local place. Before giving your appetite and palate a good rein, I recommend you go directly to those key points of the town.
This picturesque town of Roses, located on the Costa Brava in Catalonia, Spain, has roots that go back to antiquity. Founded by the Greeks around the 4th century BC, it became a strategic and commercial enclave in the region. Its history spans from Roman to medieval times, marked by fortifications that sought to protect it from invasion.
Surrounded by the impressive Bay of Roses and encircled by the Alberes Mountains, the geographical setting of Roses is as diverse as it is enchanting. Golden sandy beaches, hidden coves, and vine-covered hills make up a landscape that combines the serenity of the Mediterranean with the vitality of nature.
What to see and do in Roses
These are some of the places you can’t miss.
Roses Citadel
The Citadel of Roses was built during the reign of Charles I of Spain in the 16th century as a defensive fortification to protect the coast from possible pirate attacks. The Italian military architect Domenico de la Rovere, also known as “El Tenditore,” was in charge of designing and supervising the construction of the Citadel.
Construction of the citadel began in 1543 and was completed in 1553. The strategic choice of its location in the heart of the town of Roses and its robust design reflect the need to safeguard the region from enemy incursions that were common at the time.
Citadel of Roses has undergone several modifications over the centuries, and today, in addition to being a key piece of the region’s historical heritage, it houses the Citadel Museum, which tells the story of Roses from its earliest days to the present day.
The usual opening hours for visiting the Citadel in summer are from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. (in winter until 5 p.m.). On Mondays, the site is closed.
Roses Beach
The extensive beach of Roses is perfect for relaxing under the Mediterranean sun or participating in various water activities. Its crystal clear waters and soft sand make it an idyllic place to enjoy the weather and the views.
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park
A few kilometers from Roses is this natural park, a sanctuary for birdwatchers and nature lovers. Its wetlands and trails offer a unique experience for those seeking to connect with the biodiversity of the region.
Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes
Perched atop a hill overlooking the sea, this 9th-century Benedictine monastery is an architectural masterpiece that fuses history and spirituality. Its location offers breathtaking panoramic views.
Inside, the Citadel Museum tells the fascinating story of Roses, from its Greek origins to the Middle Ages. Visitors can explore exhibits that highlight the architectural evolution of the site and daily life over the centuries.
The walls of the Citadel provide a perfect setting for cultural events and open-air concerts, offering a unique experience where history and creativity intertwine.
In short, Roses is not only a tourist destination but a journey through time, where rich history and natural beauty merge to create an unforgettable experience on the Spanish Mediterranean coast.
Day 3 of this Costa Brava itinerary: Cadaqués – Begur
The third day of our route along the Costa Brava is a special day, and visiting Cadaqués is always a must. After our passage through Roses, it is time to continue to the north of the Catalan coast, right on the border with France. Once there, we will start to go down, but not before visiting and getting to know in depth two beautiful villages: Cadaqués and Begur.
Both towns are very different from each other, but that is also part of the unique charm of this journey: the contrasts.
Cadaqués, a must-see place in Costa Brava
The road to Cadaqués already prepares us for the impressiveness of this town. The descent is through a winding and narrow mountain road with a route of just over 20 kilometers. At the end, at the bottom, opens before us a small haven of peace, light, color, sea breeze, and above all, art.
Cadaqués is the town where every artist (I try to be one) would like to spend some time of his life. It has a unique essence and a really special charm. But what it has more is energy. An energy that captivates you and invites you to let your imagination fly and, from there, to create. There is a reason why the great Dal would choose it to live and build his little house by the sea.
Cadaqués is that picturesque fishing village on the Costa Brava of Catalonia, whose rich history dates back to Roman times. Its past has been marked by fishing, trade, and, more recently, by becoming a haven for artists and bohemians.
Salvador Dal<0xC3><0xAD>, one of the most prominent artists of the twentieth century, chose it as his home, leaving an indelible mark on the artistic identity of the place. And in every corner you will find either a work of art, a small art gallery, or an artist’s studio or workshop.
Surrounded by the Natural Park of Cap de Creus, Cadaqués is located in a sheltered bay surrounded by steep hills and the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean. Hidden coves, pebble beaches, and cobblestone streets create a unique setting that has attracted visitors and artists for generations.
These are some of the must-see places in Cadaqués:
Salvador Dalí House-Museum
Salvador Dalí’s former residence in Portlligat, near Cadaqués, has been converted into a museum. Exploring the rooms where Dalí lived and worked provides a unique insight into the creative mind of the surrealist genius.
The house transports you to another place with its energy, but most of all, the setting. Sitting on that beach for me was the perfect opportunity to imagine what the artist saw before he threw himself on the canvas.
Church of Santa Maria
Located in the center of the village, the Church of Santa Maria is an outstanding example of Gothic architecture. Its elevated location offers stunning panoramic views of Cadaqués and the sea.
Cap de Creus
The Cap de Creus peninsula, which extends from Cadaqués, is a natural site declared a natural park. Its rocky landscapes and steep paths attract hikers and nature lovers.
Cadaqués Beach
The main beach of Cadaqués, with its soft sand and crystal-clear waters, is ideal for enjoying the sun and sea. The picturesque promenade and beachfront restaurants complement the seaside experience.
Cadaqués’ relaxed and bohemian atmosphere makes it a special destination, where you can immerse yourself in the local culture, enjoy Mediterranean gastronomy, and explore the corners that inspired great artists. The combination of history, art, and natural beauty makes Cadaqués a unique place on the Costa Brava.
Eating in Cadaqués is a real pleasure, and you will not be short of options. Personally, we chose a restaurant in a small alley that had a menu that was exceptional in quality and price. It is called Tiramisu and is 100% recommendable.
🛏️ Sleeping and waking up with that sea breeze is definitely one of the best things to do in Cadaqués. Among the most outstanding hotels are the Hotel la Residencia (on the corner of the promenade), the Hotel Tarongeta (only adults) and the Hotel Calina (with a large swimming pool perfect for summer).
Begur
On day 3 of our itinerary, we continue through a beautiful village that you do not expect but that will surprise you when you visit it. Begur is a small medieval village that preserves its most special absence of that time. Walking through its streets will take you to a historical moment that we know through the movies and that you can make reality there.
Mediterranean and Catalan influences shaped its past. During the Middle Ages, Begur experienced an economic boom thanks to trade and fishing. Its cobbled streets and impressive castle are silent witnesses of its fascinating past.
Perched on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Begur offers exceptional scenery ranging from hidden coves to unusually golden sandy beaches. The geographical diversity of the region, which includes cliffs and forests, contributes to Begur’s uniqueness as a tourist destination.
Don’t miss the following places:
Begur Castle
The imposing silhouette of Begur Castle towers over the town, offering panoramic views of the surroundings and the sea. This medieval castle, with its well-preserved walls, is a tangible reminder of Begur’s historical past. To reach it, you have to climb up the steep streets of the village, but that in itself, that climb, is quite an experience, much more if you do it at night. It has super nice lighting that makes you stay in the medieval essence.
Beaches and coves
Begur has some of the most picturesque beaches and coves of the Costa Brava. Although paradoxically Begur is a little further inland (not on the beachfront), just a few kilometers away and within the municipality, there are some unique beaches. Aiguablava, Sa Riera, and Sa Tuna are outstanding examples, each with its own unique charm and crystal-clear waters ideal for diving and swimming.
Historical center
The historic center of Begur is a labyrinth of cobblestone alleys, charming squares, and well-preserved buildings that reflect traditional Catalan architecture. The Plaza de la Vila is a central point where visitors can enjoy the local atmosphere.
If you feel like a snack, right in the center and overlooking the wall tower, there is a cafeteria that has (to our surprise) Matcha Tea, Turmeric Latte, and other delicacies such as smoothies and sweets: Cafeteria Bar Es Castell.
Begur Lighthouses
Begur’s lighthouses, such as Faro de Sa Tuna and Faro de Punta Sa Sal, offer breathtaking views of the coastline. These places are perfect for enjoying unforgettable sunsets.
Begur captivates with its historical charm and natural surroundings. The relaxed atmosphere of the historic center contrasts with the rugged beauty of the nearby beaches and coves.
The fusion of history, architecture, and scenic landscapes makes Begur a unique destination on the Costa Brava. Whether exploring its heritage at the castle, enjoying the paradisiacal beaches, or simply strolling through its charming streets, Begur offers an unforgettable experience that combines the best of history and nature.
With these two visits that are truly to be noted in our travel notebook, we completed the third day of our trip.
Day 4 of this Costa Brava itinerary: Llafranc – Pals – Peratallada
The fourth day will not disappoint, that’s for sure, although in reality nothing on the Costa Brava does (there was not a single day on our route that we said it had been a little weaker in what we had visited). If there is one thing this area has, it is richness and, above all, diversity of scenery, plans, and things to see and discover.
The fourth day was focused on visiting “inland” villages (they are not mountain villages, but they are not on the beachfront or on the coast itself) of the Costa Brava. Some small villages that a friend recommended us, and out of curiosity, we went to visit. The term that best describes what we experienced this day was “wonderful.”.
Llafranc, Pals, and Peratallada are, without a doubt, three of the most beautiful villages of the Costa Brava.
Llafranc
We chose to sleep in Llafranc after our previous day in Cadaqués and Begur. We really wanted to sleep in a quiet place right on the beach. I am one of those who values waking up next to the sea and being able to have breakfast with the sea breeze (maybe because I am from Malaga, I live in Madrid, and the sea is what I miss the most).
In Llafranc there are great hotels to enjoy the night like the Hotel Isabella’s Llafranc on the beachfront or Hostal Sa Teula (rated as excellent).
Starting the day enjoying the promenade and having breakfast at the hotel or at La Croisanteria is really a great plan and a recharge of energy like few others.
In Llafranc, you cannot miss the Far de Sant Sebastia, located on a rocky promontory, offering spectacular views. The best thing is the path that will take you to the lighthouse, an enjoyment of nature. In addition, the Church of Santa Rosa de Lima is also something interesting because it has a special architectural charm and is outstanding. Built in the 18th century, it is an authentic combination of styles that adds a discordant note to the scenery.
Cala Pedrosa is perfect for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle. It is a small cove near Llafranc. Surrounded by pine trees and cliffs, this quieter cove is perfect for enjoying nature and serenity.
For the more adventurous, Llafranc offers the opportunity to enjoy various water activities such as diving, water skiing, or kayaking excursions.
Pals and Peratallada
After enjoying and getting to know Llafranc, mid-morning, we headed to the next point, Pals, and then Peratallada. These two villages are a real trip to the Middle Ages, and between them, they are really similar. Both are built in stone and keep their medieval essence intact. Tourism has provided that these historical and monumental landmarks remain.
In Pals, it is best to stroll through its cobbled streets to the top, where the church and the viewpoint are. As a personal tip, go into the art galleries and local pottery stores because they are great.
The viewpoint at the top will allow you to discover a treasure of the Costa Brava, its rice fields (something a little more unknown in this area).
On the other hand, in Peratallada, the best thing to do is to climb the Clock Tower and, from there, glimpse the village and the whole plain. We chose Peratallada to eat, and what a great choice. There are many restaurants, but we chose Ca Bonai.
If you want to discover all that this village has to offer, I recommend you read my post about what to see in Peratallada.
Days 5 and 6 in Costa Brava: Girona
After several days touring the Costa Brava, it is time to get to Girona, the capital. Here we spent two days, and not because it cannot be seen in one day, but because it is such a nice place, so interesting, with so much to see and, above all, with so much to enjoy calmly that if you can, better to spend a couple of days.
Girona was a wonderful discovery on our road trip, mostly due to the unexpected. It is a city with a unique charm that perfectly balances being a city with all the facilities but maintaining the essence of an intimate place with personality, culture, and character.
Above all, Girona draws visitors with its medieval charm, its rich history, and its unique mix of cultures. This Catalan jewel is a living testimony to the architectural and cultural diversity that has characterized the region over the centuries; it is bathed by the rivers Onyar and Ter.
Things to do in Girona
To know it in detail and get to everything, I recommend you book a free tour like this one. It is a perfect activity to discover the city and also get into its culture and essence. I think this option is great and highly recommended.
Now, let’s review some of the most interesting points of the city:
The Old City and its maze of cobblestone streets
Stepping into Girona’s Old Town is like stepping back in time. Its narrow cobblestone streets wind between pastel-colored buildings housing quaint cafes (wonderful specialty coffee shops that you definitely need to check out), boutique stores, and architectural gems.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria, with its majestic Gothic nave and iconic staircase in the Cathedral Square, is a must-see destination for those looking to immerse themselves in the city’s religious and architectural history.
The Call Jueu: a glimpse into Jewish history
Girona is home to one of the best preserved Jewish quarters in Europe: the Call Jueu. Strolling through its narrow alleys reveals the history of a vibrant Jewish community that left its mark on the city during the Middle Ages. The Main Synagogue and the Museum of Jewish History are essential stops to understand the cultural richness of this part of Girona.
Colorful homes near Onyar River
Onyar River, which runs through the city, is surrounded by colorful homes that create an unforgettable visual spectacle. The Eiffel Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel, connects the banks of the river and offers perfect panoramic views to immortalize the picturesque essence of Girona.
The wall of Girona and the city’s gardens
For a unique perspective of Girona, walking along the city wall is essential. Breathtaking views of rooftops and historic monuments create a backdrop that transports visitors through the ages. The Jardins de la Francesa, located at the top of the wall, offer a haven of peace and a spectacular view of the city.
Food in Girona
Girona’s gastronomy does not disappoint, with a mix of Catalan flavors that delight the most demanding palates. From family restaurants to modern establishments, the city offers a diverse culinary experience that reflects the cultural richness of the region.
In addition, it is the reference point for the Roca brothers, where one of them has created several very different establishments with a lot of personality. La Casa del Cacao, La Bikinera, or La Pastelería are places to visit (of which I had a good taste, and I have to say, I would come back a thousand times).
In short, Girona presents itself as a destination that fuses its historical past with a contemporary vitality, inviting visitors to dive into its charming alleys and discover the treasures it holds in every corner.
🛏️ When it comes to choosing a place to stay, you will have plenty of options. Depending on your budget and tastes, there are very good places to sleep. Some of the most outstanding and picturesque are Hotel Gran Ultonia, Hotel Palau de Bellavista or Hotel Palau Fugit. We did not stay at the latter, but we did have a snack in its inner courtyard, and it was great.
Day 7 in Costa Brava: Tossa de Mar and back
After several days of relentless travel, filled with beauty and rejuvenation in Girona, it is time to focus on our final day and the journey home. I believe the last day of a trip is an integral part of the travel experience, so I plan it meticulously to avoid it becoming just a “lost” day. Whenever possible, I opt for afternoon flights to make the most of the day. If traveling by car, I include a stop in a town for a meal or a visit as part of the route.
One key lesson from my trip to Bali is that the journey is as important as the destination. Life is about the journey—about moving, exploring, and savoring every step. Therefore, I relish the journey itself as much as the destinations.
With this philosophy in mind, we spent our last day in Costa Brava exploring Tossa de Mar. What a delightful experience! The town’s charming wall, the climb to the lighthouse with its breathtaking views, and the fascinating connection to the cinema were all enchanting. Learning that Ava Gardner put Tossa de Mar on the tourism map was a highlight. The story of Frank Sinatra’s jealousy driving him to the village during the filming of “Pandora” just to see her was particularly captivating.
As you can see, beyond the culture, history, and landmarks of each place, there are hidden stories and intricate details that shape its unique character. I love uncovering the history and secrets that make each destination special.
Places to visit in Tossa de Mar
Tossa de Mar is known for its beautiful medieval architecture, stunning beaches, and peaceful atmosphere.
The historic center of Tossa de Mar is known as Vila Vella and is surrounded by a well-preserved medieval wall. Strolling through its narrow cobblestone streets will transport you back in time. Inside the wall, you will find charming squares, stores, and restaurants.
Here are some of the places not to be missed:
- Castle of Tossa de Mar. Located at the top of Vila Vella, the castle is an impressive fortification dating from the 12th century. It offers spectacular panoramic views of the town and the sea. The castle has been a film set and is a landmark of Tossa de Mar.
- Gran Beach. Tossa de Mar’s main beach, Playa Gran, is an extensive stretch of golden sand bordered by the promenade. It is ideal for relaxing, sunbathing, and enjoying the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean.
- Mar Menuda Beach. Another beautiful beach in Tossa de Mar, Playa de la Mar Menuda, is known for its calmer waters and is perfect for snorkeling and other water sports.
- Cap de Tossa Lighthouse. The Lighthouse of Tossa, located at the end of the Vila Vella, offers panoramic views of the coast and the sea. It is a picturesque place to enjoy the sunset and capture stunning photographs.
- Municipal Museum of Tossa de Mar. This museum is located in the old part of town and houses a collection highlighting the history and culture of Tossa de Mar. It includes archaeological exhibits and contemporary art.
- Parish Church of San Vicente. Located in the Plaza de San Vicente, this Gothic church dates from the 15th century. Its tower stands out on the skyline of Tossa de Mar and is an important landmark.
- Codolar viewpoint. This viewpoint offers a spectacular view of the bay of Tossa de Mar and is a popular place to take photographs.
- Sa Riera Park. A lovely park that meanders along Tossa’s rocky coastline, providing a natural and peaceful setting for strolling and enjoying nature.
- Caminos de Ronda. Explore the coastal paths surrounding Tossa de Mar, known as “Caminos de Ronda.” They offer breathtaking views and a unique way to discover the natural beauty of the region.
Tossa de Mar is a picturesque destination that combines history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether exploring its medieval streets, enjoying its beaches, or contemplating the view from its castle, every corner of Tossa de Mar has something special to offer visitors.
And so much for our 7-day route along the Costa Brava. When you travel and prepare a route, you always have to take into account the time and the days you are going to travel. Even more if the trip is by car or, as it is our case, in a motorhome.
The important thing, as I always say, is to enjoy and go with the rhythm that makes us feel comfortable. After all, you are on vacation, and as much as you want to visit, you also have to rest and take everything at a different pace.
Map of this Costa Brava itinerary
To ensure you don’t miss any highlights along Costa Brava, we have prepared a map featuring all the key points of interest in the area. This map includes all the towns and cities we’ve discussed, allowing you to create your own customized itinerary.
If it is your first time in the country or you are going to visit other regions, do not hesitate to read in detail this Spain travel guide. It is key to organize your next trip.
